Ouachita Mountains Rock Climbing Adventures in Arkansas

Mt. Magazine
.From Paris, drive 20 minutes south on highway 309. Follow "Lodge" signs to top of mountain. Park at road's end. From summit parking lot, hike south to cliff below.

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90 developed routes ranging from 5.6-5.12c. Plenty of sport and trad, with great views from the top. Tallest route is 80 ft.

Y City
15 miles south of Waldron Arkansas on Highway 71.  Visible right from the Highway, up behind the "Y" City Mountain Inn.  Ask the proprietor at the Inn for permission to climb.
This location currently does not allow access by the property owner.  No Trespassing signs everywhere.  I will update if any change in status in the future.

Y City Rock, at the Y City Mountain InnMain structure is 80 ft in height, with several routes on the southern face and a very challenging route up the Eastern face.  (The Eastern face has not been concurred to my knowledge).  Also see Mill Creek Rock by the creek.    

Mill Creek
15 miles south of Waldron Arkansas on Highway 71.  Visible right from the Highway, up behind the "Y" City Mountain Inn.  Ask the proprietor at the Inn for permission to climb.
This location currently does not allow access by the property owner.  No Trespassing signs everywhere.  I will update if any change in status in the future.

Ouachita Mountains Rock Climbing DestinationsTwo slabs of fine featured rock with 100 ft. climbing surface rising up at just over a 45 degree angel.  Great for learning to rappel and also a very challenging climb.  Just down the creek from the "Y" City Rock.

Earthquake Ridge
3 miles north of Mena, Arkansas on the Talimena Scenic Drive.  Pull into the dirt road on right and take a short hike on unimproved trail to view the many structures.
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Earthquake Ridge, Mena, ArkansasThe Earthquake Ridge structures are comprised of several natural faults, pits or fissure cracks.  The largest and deepest provides a 25 ft wall.  Several other pits and crevasses provide bouldering  and problems to solve. 

Little Moe
Four miles east of Big Fork, Arkansas on Highway 8 East to the access to Little Missouri Falls Recreation Area.  Take the Little Missouri Trail South along a few hundred yards and access the rocks to the right.
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Little Moe at Little Missour FallsThis area can certainly stand a lot more exploring.  Lots of climbing structures, but very much unknown as far as the full extent of structures available in the area.  Conveniently located near the beautiful Little Missouri Falls for a nice swim.   .

Secret Rock
This secret location can be found deep in the Ouachita National Forest.  You will travel several miles on Logging Road, and a couple miles hike up a creek.  The few that have climbed this unusual structure have vowed to secrecy. 
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It's a secretThis unusual structure is a narrow band of rock that provides many climbing routes on the south face.  You are looking at the Eastern face , but it is the southern face that provides a huge rock wall and numerous climbing routes.

Albert Pike
Four miles east of Big Fork, Arkansas on Highway 8 East to the access to Albert Pike Recreation Area.  Take Little Missouri Trail Southwest to the rock bluffs overlooking the Albert Pike Campground.
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Albert Pike Recreation Area Rock climbingThis area can certainly provide abundant climbing activities with one structure providing over 80 ft of vertical.  Another great location with swimming and camping near by.

Fiddler Rock
From Mt. Ida, Arkansas.  Take 270 to Highway 88 and Travel East 1 mile to FS Road 274 and turn left.  Go 4 miles on dirt road to where the Ouachita Trail crosses.  Hike west on Ouachita Trail a couple hundred yards, and yo will see Rock to your right.  Can be hidden by foliage in Summer.
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Fiddler RockThis massive rock structure is in the deep woods of the Ouachita Mountains and we visited the structure on August 15th, 2001 for a first climb.  As far as I know, we may have been the first to attempt an ascent on this rock due to it' remote and hidden location.  Great swimming in Fiddler Creek just across the road when you are finished climbing.

Cossatot
From Mena, Arkansas take Hwy 8 East to Hwy 375, go south to County Road 31, then 3 miles to parking area on the left.  You can't see the rock unless you walk down to the river.
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Cossatot Rock ClimbingThis is located right next to the Cassatot River near the I'll bet that these have been discovered by a few climbers, as they are very visible, and just a couple of miles from the Caney Creek Trail and Wilderness Area.

Robbers Cave
Located four miles north of Wilburton on Hwy 2 in NE Oklahoma.  This State Park is the Historical location of the Robbers Cave, suspected hideout for Jesse James and other outlaws.  Now a very popular climbing destination.
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Robbers Cave State Park Rock ClimbingDozens of massive climbing structures with a lot of variety providing climbing activities for all skill levels.  Improved hiking trails take you to the top of many of the structures.  Lots of caves and crevasses.  More than one weekend of climbing at this beautiful park.


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